Hardware Analysis Community Forums http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/ 2010-03-21T01:27:03-05:00 http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/ /images/halogo.gif text/html 2009-08-29T02:24:20-05:00 Armando Prado http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#564646 I have a Satellite Toshiba laptop with the display broken then I have used an external LCD Monitor, But now when I power it on It doesn´t change to the external display when pressing Fn F5 , The Laptop´s display is turned on but as it is broken i can not see anything, I check the external display with other laptop and it works fine <br /> then the problemis with the Toshiba. Any idea or suggestion how can I change to the external display ??<br /> <br /> I can see the external monitor when I turn the laptop on a safe mode but after it reboot, again can not change to the external monitor.<br /> <br /> text/html 2009-08-27T20:45:28-05:00 Mike Kelley http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#564547 I have been plagued by a display problem with a Toshiba Satellite Pro which seemed to resemble so many of the other Toshiba Satellites I have seen mentioned here. After much troubleshooting the final problem ended up being the actual flexible printed circuit control connection to the inverter board. What occurs is that any pressure on the LCD top between the hinges causes deflection of the flat flexible printed circuit control and power connection where it plugs into the inverter board. The occasional flexing will cause cracks in the smaller control traces (the power and ground traces are larger and doubled up). In my case this would manifest itself by the backlight going out at seemingly random times. The big hint was that it would sometimes blackout even during booting, but most commonly while just doing normal computer work. The computer heating up would also make it worse. Often times pressing on the lid close switch would cause the backlight to come on for a few seconds. Tapping the switch would often work better, because of the extra vibration. My first repair involved soldering the traces of the flat flexible printed circuit connection &quot;cable&quot; but the repair did not hold because anytime I would pick up the closed laptop (sometimes by grabbing it by the back between the hinges with one hand) would cause the plastic cover to flex where the inverter board is mounted and push up the inverter board to move up in relation to the LCD frame, severely flexing the notorious flat control &quot;cable&quot;. This again fractured my soldered circuit traces. Since the cable is about a centimeter wide, with about 8 traces, it is damned difficult to solder (I did it with a 30x microscope I sometimes use for such repairs). A better option is to buy a new cable. But no matter what process you use (repair or replace) the issue of the weak plastic in that area flexing will still cause a future problem. I addressed it to some degree by placing stiff foam between the plastic back and the LCD frame, to help minimize the flexing. While I didn't work to beef up the plastic back (not wanting at the time to have to pull the LCD off at the time) that would be worthwhile also). I also NEVER again pick up the laptop with one hand by the back between the hinges. I have had no further problems with the backlight. This was absolutely a design problem from Toshiba, at least with my 1115-S103. text/html 2008-10-21T23:07:38-05:00 alexa alexic http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#546830 Hello!<br /> I found result for inverter on toshiba 4200,4300,etc... UA0392P06,and woks really!<br /> If ever of you pull the plastic bag for side where was 7 pins.In down where is pin 1 look fuse F1 24V ,use ohmm meter and check if no resist 0 on no sound (in short connect) ,fuse was burned.<br /> Use one wire and put there ,bridge this..........<br /> I repair 2 times on both my laptops and work before,little thing but neccesery. text/html 2008-10-13T02:13:21-05:00 battery land http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#546504 try to buy a new replacement battery at here:<br /> <br /> <a class="ext" href="/action/r/http://www.toshiba-laptop-battery.co.uk/toshiba-satellite-pro-4600-series.htm" target="_blank">http://www.toshiba-laptop-battery.co.uk/toshiba-satellite-pro-...series.htm</a><br /> <br /> <a class="ext" href="/action/r/http://www.laptopbatteryweb.com/toshiba-satellite-pro-4600-series.htm" target="_blank">http://www.laptopbatteryweb.com/toshiba-satellite-pro-4600-series.htm</a> text/html 2008-09-18T07:55:06-05:00 Ayrton S http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#545276 I believe that the switch on your particular model is a magnetic one. If so, there are no externally visible components, but there will be a magnetic reed switch inside either the main body of the laptop or the lid, and a lump of iron opposite it (in lid or main body) to activate the switch when the lid is shut.<br /> <br /> Cheers<br /> <br /> Ayrton S <img src="/images/smilies/smile11.gif" width="14" height="14" border="0" alt=":cool:" title=":cool:"> text/html 2008-09-17T08:30:47-05:00 julie almond http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#545215 I have a Satellite Pro A10 with dim screen, I have tested the backlight and that works fine, I bought another inverter but nothing changed although this could be faulty too. I would like to know can anyone tell me where the lid close switch on this laptop is please. So that I can check this problem before buying yet another inverter. Thankyou text/html 2008-08-02T16:18:25-05:00 Jim Stork http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#542076 I have the same problem - power light on and Nothing - cd drive pins a couple os secs. and then totally nothing. Not sure what to try. text/html 2008-07-07T04:40:44-05:00 Morris J http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#539752 I had a similar problem with an intermittent blank screen - sometimes occuring after flexing the screen with a Satellite 1110.<br /> <br /> The underlying cause was a nearly invisible hairline crack in the flat orange cable (within the lid that goes to the mother board).<br /> <br /> The crack (which was a crack in the conducting copper, not the plastic flat cable itself) was next to the end of the cable that plugged into the inverter board (the inverter board is just below the LCD within the screen lid).<br /> <br /> Pressure near the inverter would &quot;fix&quot; the problem because that would flex the crack. I recall it is just where the inverter presses against the cable against the top of the lid. It clearly was a design fault with cable and I strongly suspect that the same fault would occur in other laptops where the same type of cable is stressed in the same place.<br /> <br /> Ideally, replace the cable. Alternatively you could try and solder a wire over the crack... Don't cut the thin wires - they actually have a wire core and outer conducting sheath and are not ordinary wires...<br /> <br /> Cheers<br /> <br /> Morris text/html 2008-06-07T16:44:56-05:00 CARA http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#537620 Thank you for the suggestion.<br /> <br /> In French, we say 'Beau, bon, pas cher avec un bon rapport qualité-prix'' which would translate into ''Beautiful, Good, Inexpensive with the best quality for the cheapest price''.<br /> <br /> I get that is what I am looking for and will do so shortly in the forum discussion as you recommended. Thank you.<br /> <br /> Cara text/html 2008-06-07T14:46:47-05:00 Adam Kolak http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#537618 CARA said: <div class="quote">H<br /> I am thinking about buying an HP. And I see Sony has new computers out as well? <br /> <br /> Can anyone made a recommendation on this make or any other make for that matter? <br /> <br /> Thanks - Cara<br /> </div><br /> First off, hello and welcome to the forum here at Hardware Analysis. <br /> <br /> My recommendation to you is to post a new thread in the Portable Hardware forum asking for help with purchasing a new laptop. In it state your requirements such as screen size (12&quot;, 13.3&quot;, 15&quot;, 17&quot;, etc.) and what you will be using the laptop for. A budget also helps. <br /> <br /> Thank You,<br /> text/html 2008-06-07T14:26:52-05:00 CARA http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#537616 Hello,<br /> <br /> I wondered how you fared with your Toshiba after the repairs?<br /> <br /> My Toshiba satellite has been blacking out constantly for the past two months and I am just about ready to throw it out of the window since it takes many tries to get it finally going for it to black out in a middle of LONG and important email I was sending overseas, amongst several other blackouts for the past two months.<br /> <br /> After all the bad comments read on constant blackouts from several Toshiba users, I am not sure that I would want to continue further with Toshiba. I have my computer for a little over 2 years and fail to understand why this happens as I am not a technically geared person (woman).<br /> <br /> I am thinking about buying an HP. And I see Sony has new computers out as well? <br /> <br /> Can anyone made a recommendation on this make or any other make for that matter? <br /> <br /> Thanks - Cara<br /> <br /> text/html 2008-04-21T10:54:33-05:00 Ayrton S http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#534104 Here’s a quick update on laptop display problems that I first reported here a long time ago. I finally got to work on my son’s Satellite A15 S129 which died the Black Screen of Death a couple of years ago – he abandoned it. Well I inherited it, (my Christmas present from my son, a dead PC), re-read the entire thread again, and got to work. The A15 S129 is a little different to Bob Pfeiffer’s Tosh 1800, but the same principles apply. Symptoms were as follows: mostly suffering from completely black screen (Windows etc showing very faintly at certain angles), occasionally screen lit and working perfectly, works fine with external monitor. The screen’s occasional reversion to full working was and still remains something of a puzzle, as does the fact that the Intel logo will often appear, brightly, at the bottom RHS of the screen on switch-on.<br /> <br /> Don’t forget to remove the power supply AND the battery from the computer. I also kept touching a nearby (very hot!) metal pipe entering a wall radiator to earth myself whilst working on the electronics.<br /> <br /> The 2 screw heads securing the screen-surround bezel are covered by round black sticky tabs, not rectangular, just next to the hinges. The tabs are difficult to remove without creasing but a fingernail is as good as anything. (There are also two difficult to remove rectangular blue sticky tabs on the very edge of the screen bezel, but these cover screws holding the screen to its metal surround and needn’t be touched. I know this now…) Keep the tabs and screws safe.<br /> <br /> A blunt ended table knife is the best tool to remove the bezel. Once you’ve started to lift it and some space is visible, fingers can be inserted and the bezel retaining tabs can be clicked undone one by one. The material of the bezel is quite flexible and tough – be brave. The A15 S129 is more difficult because of the way the bezel is wrapped around the 2 ‘Titanium’ (whaa??) speakers but take it slowly and it all peels off eventually.<br /> <br /> The inverter was revealed at last. It’s the long narrow green pcb, beneath the screen, held by a single central screw (you’ll need a very small jewellers cross-headed screwdriver for this one) and encased in a clear rectangular celluloid tube. On the A15 S129 there doesn’t seem to be any stress on the cables caused by proximity to the hinge – Toshiba seem to have learned about this - nor are there any metal-foil earth straps. I was disappointed to not see any obvious loose connectors on my inverter. (Remember it operates at high voltage – battery out). There’s a multi pin connector at the left-hand end and a two-pin one with pink and white cables, which was very difficult to undo in my case, at the right.<br /> <br /> The make and part number on the inverter pcb is Tamura HBC-0291. I undid the screw and carefully prised out the two plugs from either end. I sprayed both plugs and sockets with contact cleaner aerosol solvent and seated and re-seated them several times. Plugging everything back together but leaving the bezel off, I replaced the battery, switched on and kept my fingers crossed. Nada. Zip. Nothing. <br /> <br /> In the hope that this might indicate inverter failure I Googled ‘Tamura HBC-0291’ and was sent straight to an <a href="/action/r/http://www.ebay.com/">eBay</a> Buy-it-now sale for a second-hand inverter here in the UK which I bought on the spot for £10 +£3 p&amp;p which doesn’t seem too bad to me, posted next day first-class.<br /> <br /> About two minutes after the Pay Pal transaction I had my brainwave. My firm’s laptop is a Satellite Pro A40 with a similar spec to the A15 S129 (P4 instead of Celeron?)….. could it be??? Well they both have blue lids… So with my new-found bravery I prised off the bezel in moments, hey presto, Tamura HBC-0291! I then remembered to take out the battery (!) whipped out the inverter, swapped it to my son’s Tosh, switched on – perfect picture! Hurrah! So intermittency notwithstanding, I’ve identified the problem and ordered the solution.<br /> <br /> I could not have attempted this work without the advice and support of this forum, which I have followed for two years prior to having the opportunity to try out the fix. Thanks again to Bob and all the others who have put in time and effort here. (thinks… wonder if work will shell out for a new inverter for the A40...?) <br /> <br /> Ayrton S <img src="/images/smilies/smile11.gif" width="14" height="14" border="0" alt=":cool:" title=":cool:"> text/html 2008-03-24T12:57:44-05:00 Sal Cal http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=240#531985 I have a 4600 and have had the problem for years. Bob's fix would work for a limited time. Gradually the screen blanking would return internittently and I would use the interlock switch (the little button) to recover. Eventually the bezel would have to come off and the inverter connector reseated. <br /> Opening and closing the lid puts a strain on the inverter cable that results in loosening the connector over time. The machine is old now so I have other machines. I found that leaving the lid open and using the machine as a desktop cures the problem. No opening and closing the lid and the connector stays in place.<br /> By the way, by my estimate Bob has probably saved people hundreds of thousands of dollars in repair and/or replacement costs. We the readers of this thread owe him a big vote of thanks. text/html 2008-03-23T14:07:23-05:00 Ivan Rowland http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=220#531941 Hi everyone, I too have been experiencing display problems with a Satellite pro 4600, it all started after I had to replace a dead screen. At first I thought it was a faulty panel switch, as after flicking it up and down several time everything worked ok for a while, any way after finding this forum and reading about other peoples problems I checked the connections to the inverter, and everything is now ok, thank goodness!!.<br /> I thought I would bring to everyones notice, you may already know, you may not, any way in the set up screen (press escape button at boot up and then F1) there is and option to enable\diable the Panel power on\off facility. If this is enabled your satellite will shut down / resume just by opening or closing the lid. Very useful, unless you have a faulty lid switch.. My advice whilst trouble shooting your display problems at the first opportunity make sure this function is disabled.. Have look at the Toshiba manual section 7 setup and passwords...Hope this extra info is of use to someone out there.. I know I was very very pleased to find this forum it has been invaluable to me thanks to everyone who contributes<br /> Ivan Rowland text/html 2008-03-21T00:11:44-05:00 lynn maxon http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/13841/?o=220#531826 Thanks To Bob's detailed descriptions, I was able to fix my display exactly as he said. The problem appeared to have been caused by the seating of the connectors. The one on the left was the only one I could remove, and after reseating and closing everything up, it works like a DREAM!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!