Hardware Analysis Community Forums http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/ 2008-10-06T14:14:44-05:00 http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/ http://media.hardwareanalysis.com/halogo.gif text/html 2008-04-11T22:12:59-05:00 William Wall http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#533429 I have a similar issue with the A75-S206. It works fine when plugged into the power brick, but the battery will not charge, nor will the computer operate from battery power. If you just plug in the PC without turning it on, the orange &quot;Charging&quot; light comes on for a few seconds and then stops.<br /> <br /> I have disassembled the machine and taken some measurements of the battery connection pins with the power brick plugged in (and the machine off):<br /> <br /> 1 - 1.44V<br /> 2 - 1.44V<br /> 3 - 3.18V<br /> 4 - 0.00V<br /> 5 - 3.25V<br /> 6 - 5V<br /> 7 - 5V<br /> 8 - GND<br /> 9 - GND<br /> <br /> Is the above issue related to this one? text/html 2008-04-09T14:38:14-05:00 Ed McNamara http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#533142 Jan:<br /> <br /> Did you get a response from Randy? I'd like to send him mine as well. Same problem for a very annoying 6 months.<br /> <br /> -Ed text/html 2008-04-03T04:42:39-05:00 David Steele http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#532731 I was recently having the overheating problem with my A75. But I found some very detailed instructions on completely disassembling the computer along with pictures and was able to completely clean out the fans, heat sinks and mother board. So I'm pretty confident that I can take the computer apart again and get it back together, but is there any chance you could either post or email me a couple pictures of the repair that you did to the power jack? Thanks! My email address is <a class="ext" href="mailto:david.steele135@comcast.net">david.steele135@comcast.net</a> if you can email the pictures to me.<br /> <br /> Dave text/html 2008-03-19T20:12:02-05:00 Jordan Peterson http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#531755 Add to this long list of yet another laptop A75-S2292. Replaced the battery as I thought that was the problem. Now I'm getting ready to crack open the case and try the soldering trick. It's been awhile and I've not been the best at it but we'll see how it goes! <img src="http://media.hardwareanalysis.com/smilies/smile1.gif" width="14" height="14" border="0" alt=":)" title=":)"><br /> <br /> By the way, I'm going to use these instructions. <a class="ext" href="/action/r/http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaA75/satA75_1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaA75/satA75_1.htm</a><br /> <br /> I've used them before to take it apart and blow the laptop out with air. It went off pretty well except there was a thin line that appeared on the left hand side of the screen. Nothing major but it was there. <br /> <br /> Then these to do the work.<br /> <br /> <a class="ext" href="/action/r/http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2007/12/06/dc-power-jack-repair-guide/all-comments/#comments" target="_blank">http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2007/12/06/dc-power-jack.../#comments</a><br /> <a class="ext" href="/action/r/http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2006/01/28/toshiba-satellite-m35x-a75-power-jack-problem/all-comments/#comments" target="_blank">http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2006/01/28/toshiba-satel.../#comments</a><br /> <br /> Some notes as I proceed here (using this as a guide <a class="ext" href="/action/r/http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaA75/satA75_1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaA75/satA75_1.htm</a> )<br /> <br /> Step 2 - Got stuck on how to remove the wireless card. So I just have left it for now. I was able to get the bar out but couldn't figure out how to pull the card it's self out and I don't want to force anything. (See below step 10 for how I ended up getting it out.)<br /> <br /> Step 5 - Got stuck on one of the screws where the battery is. Got stripped out. But as I read here <a class="ext" href="/action/r/http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=218198" target="_blank">http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=218198</a> be sure to have the right size screwdriver. Ransacking all my dads tools finally found one that fit very snuggly compared to what I was using. That was amazing. Not to mention it had a nice large handle to use.<br /> <br /> Step 7 - That was nerve racking as it wouldn't come free from the side closest to the keyboard. Finally just pulling the top toward the keyboard starting at one side seemed to pry it free. I'm not sure if that is the way to do it though. That sure was a lot of pressure and I was expecting to hear or see broken plastic (well sort of). Hehe<br /> <br /> Step 10 - Keyboard cable disconnecting looked really confusing. I did figure out that I could slide what I thought was the whole cable off with my fingernail on each side but realized that is the lock that holds the cable in there and all of a sudden the cable slid right out (which has no connector on the end, it's just a strip of plastic, so don't bend or horse on it much).<br /> <br /> Step 2b - Seeing how that cable came out prompted me to go and take a second look at the wireless card. I inserted one of my thumb fingernails in between the card and what appeared to be the lock and pulled it slightly out away from the card (I did this to both sides). And then the card came right up. The wires connecting the card are just like button type connectors it appears (or at least I hope). 'White' goes to 'Main' connection and 'Black' to 'Aux'<br /> <br /> Step 12 - The photo doesn't show the Wi-Fi cable (more then likely you'll probably remember what it is, had to be careful removing it). Also there is a grounding screw that is for the LCD screen cable that isn't mentioned in the instructions that needs to be removed (I'm assuming it's a ground, I could be wrong). Don't forget to put this back when you are putting it back. The screws for the inside part of the screen by the way are F8 screws it seems. I can't find it marked on the parts. I saw a list the other day listing all the screws that this uses. Not sure where it was now.<br /> <br /> Step 14 - I can't seem to get the speaker cables off. The touch pad one came off like the keyboard one. Rather interesting way they do that. Proceeding.<br /> <br /> Step 16 - Sure enough, once I got it off I could insert both thumb and index finger and use my fingernails to pull those speaker connectors off. Kind of hard even at that. By the way I used a thin flat screwdriver and my fingernails to pry the cover off. Don't have a guitar pick. <br /> <br /> Step 18 - Had to go hunt for tools here. Using a 3/16 in. socket worked for the hex heads. Also I just looked at the Phillips screwdrivers I'm using... I started with a size #0 I guess and that was the one I got stuck on with a stripping screw. I found a #1 and that was the one that worked a lot better.<br /> <br /> I stopped at step 20 as there was no point in going on for the soldiering job I needed to do.<br /> <br /> Now to go find a good soldiering iron and some solder. Also I don't have a pump. Not sure if I'll get one though. text/html 2008-02-23T22:48:21-05:00 Jan Benschop http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#529940 Mike, I'm new -- as of Feb 23 2008 -- to this forum. I have problems with my A75, opened it up, temporarily repaired it with a re-solder of the jack to the board and the + pigtail to the back of the jack, but now it is giving me a different problem: it is not charging the battery anymore, so regardless of AC being hooked up and the AC light being on, it still shuts down.<br /> Did you ever post those pictures, and can you tell me how to access them?<br /> Jan Benschop (Dutchman) text/html 2008-02-23T22:33:30-05:00 Jan Benschop http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#529938 Hello Randy,<br /> Just now, in February of 2008, I read the threads concerning the power problems with the Satellite A75. I wish I could go back in time and help you with your lawsuit, but I am probably a bit late.<br /> <br /> Before reading these posts, I already went into my laptop and soldered the power jack back onto the board. I also soldered the pigtail for the + connection back onto the back of the jack. It ran fine for a couple of weeks, and now for a couple of days, the battery charging light (green) dimmed down and flickered, sometimes coming on bright to indicate the battery was charging. But now, the power management software is dimming my screen after running the computer for a couple of minutes, and telling me that my battery is discharged, and to power the computer down immediately. The power in light stays lit, telling me that the power connection is fine, but the battery won't charge.<br /> Here's my questions: <br /> 1. Where, on what thread or URL, can I find information on how to fix it?<br /> 2. How much would you charge to fix it?<br /> 3. Can you send me information on where to send it?<br /> <a class="ext" href="mailto:dutchtreat@dishmail.net">dutchtreat@dishmail.net</a> text/html 2007-10-16T00:52:37-05:00 johnny pomoker http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#514345 A same day follow-up on my situation.<br /> <br /> I've actually been running without ANY problems since my first post, maybe like 8 hours ago. Weird eh? My battery is fully charged, no discharging whatsoever. I did, however, change something. <br /> <br /> I went into the device manager and I disabled the battery. I noticed at first, it still discharged, but then I wiggled the jack, went into hibernate, de-hibernated (word?), and its been going good since. However, I'm pretty much expecting it to start discharging any second. <br /> <br /> So, does anyone know if disabling the battery does anything? If not, my next step will be to uninstall Toshiba Power Saver, as someone has mentioned in this thread. <br /> <br /> If that doesn't work then I will open my computer up, I guess. I'm really saving that until I really need to though, because at this point, it's a little above a minor annoyance. Also, I've never opened a laptop up before and I've only seen a soldering iron like twice before. On top of that, I'm in the &quot;post-college rebel bulls**t&quot; phase, so yeah, not a lot of money. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Edit 3 hours later: Damn, my computer shutdown twice. There was no battery, just running off AC. text/html 2007-10-15T21:31:11-05:00 Dee Demare http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#514313 ok i have for now solved my problem . It was the plug. Its only 3 monthls old but not a toshiba...worked fine up until a few weeks ago . My other was broken so I decided to try and fix it with a little twisting and electrical tape <img src="http://media.hardwareanalysis.com/smilies/smile1.gif" width="14" height="14" border="0" alt=":)" title=":)"> . I did..... and the lapper is charging and performing normally again..... Thank God..... <br /> <br /> PS I took the lapper apart ...well almost apart with the exception of disconnecting some ribbons or what have you .... anyone know how to properly disassemble an a105 -s171 ...the manuals i see online so far does not show my model and how to take the plugs./ribbons apart . I want to clean the dust./gunk from fan etc.<br /> <br /> Thanks in advance ~! text/html 2007-10-15T20:09:21-05:00 Lance Thaut http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#514300 To preface, I have a Satellite P15-S420, I use it every day, at least 6 hours every day between two work locations, so it's always being moved. <br /> I have never had any issues related to static electricity like I have seen here, so I am not commenting on that in any way. Good luck there.<br /> The first time I saw the power issues I had, I replaced the power &quot;brick&quot;, then the other half of the cord, hoping it would be these parts first. No dice.<br /> I have opened and resoldered my computer at least 5 times now in the 4 years I have owned it, always purchasing and soldering a new DC jack onto the mother board every time I do it, because I want to minimize the chance of it failing again each time. Every time I've done it, I've become a little quicker at it (now 2-3 hours), I've also become a little more brazen about how much solder I glob on so it is as strong as possible. This last go round has been my best by far. It ALWAYS solves the problem, at least for a while. <br /> But to the heart of the questions above this, they all sound like the DC jack on the motherboard, as I have seen the same, or many variations of the incorrect light indicating charging that doesn't occur, weird battery drain, lack of battery charging and the like.<br /> The post above is very true. If you use the laptop without the battery, and the thing shuts off while you are using it, you have shifted the powercord, therefore the DC jack on the motherboard, therefore broken the electrical connection. This is an excellent confirmation of the issue and I would consider it as Troubleshooting step #1. And it's never good to shut a computer down midstream, but if you're having these problems, you know you are already doing that sometimes anyway, just unplanned.<br /> It's the DC jack........ it's the DC Jack, and just in case you are still wondering, it's the DC Jack.<br /> Hope it helps. text/html 2007-10-15T19:36:22-05:00 Lance Thaut http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#514297 text/html 2007-10-15T19:31:29-05:00 johnny pomoker http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#514296 Hello, I have Toshiba Satellite M65-S9092. I'm having sort of the same problem everyone is mentioning except mine is not as bad, but it seems like its getting worse.<br /> <br /> I keep the laptop plugged into the wall most of the time, and it will randomly stop using the AC and start running off the battery until I mess around with the little jack that goes into the laptop. Also, I've noticed that if I plug the AC into a different outlet, the problem occurs less frequently. <br /> <br /> Here's something I haven't really seen anyone try and that is just running the computer without the battery. I've been doing that but it I still get random shutdowns. It seems to work longer and better if I charge the battery a little bit while the laptop is shutdown, taking the battery out, and then turning it back on. <br /> <br /> By the way, I'm not sure if it is a connectivity issue because my green AC plugged in light is always working, so it acknowledges that my power is connected. However, that is just a very blind guess. <br /> <br /> So I was wondering if anyone could help me out, I've been seeing tons of stuff on the Toshiba laptops battery problems but I've rarely seen ones on my model or even the whole M65 series. <br /> <br /> Also, I was wondering if it's safe to run the laptop without the battery. I've been hearing it was ok to do so, but I'm dealing with a power problem that may change things. <br /> <br /> This is a pretty sad problem. Other people deal with software issues or video issues etc, but we can't even keep our computers on. <br /> <br /> Thanks in advance. text/html 2007-10-15T16:38:02-05:00 William Medley http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#514275 Sounds like a faulty connection on the system board after the power jack... text/html 2007-10-14T21:31:09-05:00 Dee Demare http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#514182 I am having the same issues with my a105 the only difference is when its plugged in it shows its charging ...it even says its charging on little icon yet its losing power like as if i was just on battery power ...it dies fast then takes hours to charge up and will only charge when laptop is off . i have a new battery and no clue if this could be the same problem the rest of you are having...any clue&gt;? text/html 2007-06-23T17:39:28-05:00 oumayer schk http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#498515 I recently downloaded a Hyper threading test program from Intel. ran it on my system and guess what...?? It seems the toshiba A75-S226 doesn't have Hyperthreading technology...!!!<br /> Have we all been taken for a ride?????<br /> <br /> Let me know if you guys get the same problems.<br /> <br /> <br /> text/html 2007-06-23T16:43:54-05:00 k smith http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/38964/?l=1#498508 I had recently started having the common intermitent power jack issues with my A75-229. After searching for a cheap fix (none under $125 considering labor and shipping), I asked a friend who is a little more experienced with soldering than i am to help look at the power jack. There are 4 pins on the jack, 3 pins on the side by the outside of the board and one pin on the side toward the center of the board. The pin of the jack toward the center of the board appeared to be the problem. Directly beside the pin there is a small metal &quot;nub&quot;. After testing the continuity of the pin and nub there appeared to be no resistance so soldering a connection between the two shouldn't cause problems. We tried this and there has been no power issues for 72 hours now. If this changes I will repost. I am NOT an IT expert but do like sharing info that might help DIYers. Unfortunately we were doing this on the fly and did not take pictures but hopefully the description is sufficient.